Foraging and Meandering For Chanterelles In the Swedish Countryside

There is something spectacular about the rural countryside of Sweden. Autumn foliage is in a riot of color that makes the long drive on a narrow winding road all the more interesting. Certain Someone and I took it all in as we made our way to the house. At night you can stand outside and see the dazzling stars and galaxies light up the night sky. If you listen, it’s deadly silent, peaceful, still, and calm. Something this city girl is not at all used too. Nature in rural Sweden remains in its untouched state. Virginal, something that’s I had never really seen before. There is country and there is country. This was pretty rural. Certain Someone , another couple and I had decided to go mushroom hunting on my last day in Sweden. With all the talk of Chanterelles I was obsessed. Everyone said we should have some good ones around the house. But there was a fear of picking the wrong ones. If you were to walk around the forests near the house you would see endless varieties. I was spell bound in capturing them in photos. Fungi can be so beautiful, with the deadliest Toadstools leading the pack in nature’s beauty pageant.

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The group and I set out by car to drive more into towns direction. Parked cars by the side of the road indicated there were other foraging for  mushrooms in the forests. Some  dirt road paths lead to dead roundabout ends. So we continued. We finally found  a spot. A typical Swedish family with tow headed blond children, all in their Wellies , were seated and picking through the days harvest. Beautiful large baskets full of Chanterelles  were being  dusted  of by the ladies and sliced in half to check for snails, etc. They also had baskets of ruby red ligonberries. Like the Swedish Martha Stewart she was, she pointed off to the forests and the path and said we should find a lot. She made it seem so effortless. These were pros in mushroom picking game. It was like a scene from  the defunct Gourmet to see this family and their bounty from foraging in the Swedish countryside.Mushroom hunting is a favorite Swedish pastime and thankfully the  Swedish goverment has a Right to Public Access, so natures bounty is open to all.

We, armed with one paper Lidl shopping bag, and our men carrying big sticks, set forth. We saw lots of mushrooms along the way. Mostly inedible. It’s easy to see why some people could mistake some other varieties for the Chanterelle. Thankfully our friends had given us a field guide of mushrooms that had photos and warned which are the safest, the somewhat safe, and just plain deadly. Did you know some toxins don’t begin to take effect until several days later and then complete organ failure? It’s Russian Roulette in those woods!  The men played with their big sticks on the path like they were fencing, while the blush of red caught Britt- Helen’s and mine eyes. We may not have found the elusive Chanterelle, but there were ligonberries! Glorious ligonberries . Some so ripe they burst when you touched them. Since we only had one bag, I tried to pull branches of berries to keep them intact until I could sort at home. I figured I could throw the branches on the grounds and maybe Ligonberries would bloom around our rocks next year. I envied how prepared the Swedish family we saw earlier was with their baskets , Wellies and all. My feet were soaked through traipsing in the damp forests, with hidden streams. Finally at the point of about to give up ,walking back towards the car, we found a spot. Voila! Jackpot. In the dark damp woods the Funnel Chanterelles bloomed up from the ground. An untrained eye could mistake the tops for dead fallen autumn leaves. But their golden stems revealed they where what we came for! Chanterelles in abundance. Swedish Martha Stewart was right. We filled up out bags and went back to the house. On the way we stopped by the neighbor farmer to get some of his fresh eggs and Swedish honey. He told us  has four cocks and 500 hens and sells around 400-500 eggs a week. A chicken harem.

I wish I had photos of the dinner I made. Scan, a Swedish meat company had invited Anne, who invited me , to a Julboard event earlier  that week,and gave us a bag of meats which I brought to the house. Julboard is the big Christmas Swedish meal of hams traditionally. I will blog all about that later. I served  Roast Beef  and gravy from Scan, with Tagliatelle, cream, leeks, Funnel Chanterelles  and some Black trumpets , the others had brought from their in laws house, on our menu. In addition I made a pork roast with a ligonberry  rum glaze made from the scant half cup of berries I foraged. Not feeling 100 percent confident in a foreign simple kitchen, my guests and Certain Someone said it was fine. In the back of my mind I was praying we didn’t pick anything wrong, because these stories are rampant at this time of year. It’s weird for a glamorous city girl to really comprehend what’s its like to really pick the components for her own supper. It was and experience I will never forget. The next morning I left the house at dawn to drive  to the airport and have a last look at Swedish countryside through the  foggy mist. It was most beautiful sights you will ever see.

Here is a slide-show of what we saw. I really see beauty in mushrooms. Also here is a great online guide to identifying mushrooms in Scandinavia.

A Week of Stylish Swedish Dinners With Family and Friends

There is something about Stockholm. When we landed close to midnight last Sunday evening, I felt I was home. It’s been two years since my last visit to the Land Of The Midnight Sun. However its Autumn now and the days are getting colder and darkness falls earlier and earlier.

The colorful berries are still present but the beautiful assortment of Chanterelles and other mushrooms are in profusion. Dare I say it, I’m eating better here in Stockholm than in Rome. Fresh, clean simple flavors served in cutting edge Swedish design. While Swedes may long for more spice, I found the simplicity wholesome and fresh. 

Dagmar and her husband, of Cat In The Kitchen were gracious to invite Certain Someone and I to dinner in her gorgeous home in walking distance from the sea. Anne of Annes Food showed up with adorable Baby Titus and her husband. Can I say I’m love little Titus, and Dagmars house.  Titus is such a fun baby with a healthy refined appetitite. He stayed up with the big folks and then came to say goodnight in his Cinnamon bun pajamas. Look at Dagmar’s kitchen! Dagmars excellent Swedish Meal was outstanding and she claimed it was her first time serving such.You know we sometimes wonder  in the food blogger world if the person really has kitchen chops. Dagmar does. I hope to be able to come come back more frequenrtly to enjoy the girls company in the future. Here was Dagmars traditional Swedish menu. Did I also mention she effortslty pulled this off on a Monday night before jetting off for work in Coppenhagen? I’m grateful.

  •  SOS for starters (sill,ost,smör i.e. herring, västerbotten cheese, butter. Served with crisp bread and snaps).

  •  Chanterelle risotto

  •  Veal steak

  •  Dessert ofsmåländsk ostkaka(a Swedish cheese cake originally from Småland. Made with home made cheese. Served with different jams, berries and whipped cream).

Some of you may not know I have family in Sweden.My father’s closest brother lived here and had three sons. The brothers communicated throughout their lives sending photos and letters of their respective families and yet hadn’t seen each other for years. When my father died I felt a cosmic pull to seek them out and we meet some years ago. I hadn’t seen them since the last visit five years ago. My cousins are very busy and successful with their own families now and I was so happy everyone now lived in Stockholm proper. My Aunt is a whiz on the computer and has been following Coco Cooks and had kept up with me over the years. I was so surprised. She pulled out my late uncles extensive collection of photos from the brothers early days in Europe in the Sixties. The black and white photos of  Nigerian scions from a prominent family studying and playing in Europe were fantastic to see.All were to go into medicine or some branch in various countries around the world. I had never seen those photos and gained more insight into my illustrious family.Fortunately my Aunt  is a great host of information. I was happy to introduce Certain Someone to my fathers side at last. He and the cousins clicked immediately, spoke Swedish, and I could tell they would be good friends with similar interests. My cousins wife was there with thier beautiful daughter. Even though we are many hues and nationalities, the genetic resemblances were strong. Looking at everyone I felt  happy , centered, and content .  My aunt served another traditional Swedish Dinner for us:
  • A starter of salmon rolls, Chanterelle and Reindeer tarts, salad with shrimp
  • Jansson’s Temptation a  rich potato and anchovy dish
  • Meatballs and sausages
  • And an almond and berry cake with coffee.

*A note on the photos. Maybe I’m overwhelmed or finding it difficult to focus, but I’m not having a good relationship with the camera on this trip. I’m relying on Certain Someone to capture most moments. I hope these photos do the incredible meals some justice.

Checking In From Rome and Sweden

 

Can you believe I’m too tired to write? So here are some pics to show you how I spent last week, in Rome. Now I’m in a chillier climate, Sweden, even further up north getting ready to meet some more great fellow food bloggers later this evening. In Rome I had the honor of finally meeting NYC Caribbean Ragazza.Stay tuned for more on that. I promise more detailed posts, but for now here are some pics out of over 1000 and videos from Rome alone. Many from the outstanding Ommagio we went to for my late Uncle the dancer  Bob Curtis.All the Who’s Who of the Roman Modern world came to celebrate a brilliant artistic life and soul.I need a nap now.

Art Wine Project at Three Peas Art Lounge

I love to promote my adopted home town Chicago. In fact I feel more an affinity for this city in which I lived in for a decade than my true Hometown , Washington D.C. It was love instantly and Chicago really is my type of town. Chicago leaves you wanting for nothing culturally and food and wine wise. So its with pleasure I want to introduce you to a favored spot of mine. Three Peas Art Lounge. You may remember Three Peas Art Lounge donated their space for Stir It 28. Small and cosy in South Loop, Three Peas mission is to “support artists ‘ in atypical formats”.

Last week Maya and Chrishon invited me to their Press event to launch the Art Wine Project. I love these young ladies as they boldly have combined a gallery and social spot in an innovation setting. Keeping the innovation going they have created the Art Project. Three Peas now has private label wines featuring specially commissioned art work  on their labels byHebru Branltey and Krista Franklin. There are two varietals , a  2010 Cabernet Sauvignon featuring Hebru Brantley’s work and a  2010 Riesling featuring Krista Franklin’s work. I sampled both and they are excellent. When you purchase a case you get a signed print of the artwork.Individual bottles will be available for retail as well. The Art Wine Project installation actually runs from August 7- September 30. So there is still time to see these artists great works.

Here’s a clip about Hebru who tells me he makes a mean Macaroni and Cheese. Anytime you want to stop over to Coco Cooks come on over Hebru!

I will be taking a tiny break for a few weeks. But I may drop in with a post or two if time permits. Thanks for reading.

Homemade Pork Scratchings aka Pork Rinds

In the carnivore realm there are two groups. Those that eat pork and those that don’t. In our household we love the Swine. Sausages, bacon , chops, loins, roasts,etc.Need I say more? Pork really is a tastier and a more versatile meat.Religious reasons I get and respect.Even those restrictions were an early form of food safety. But,I hear a lot of people for various reasons profess why they don’t eat pork, is that it’s dirty. That excuse  is dated, period. Nowadays eating poultry, fish, and eggs can out you at more risk than eating pork. There are fewer cases of Trichinosis out there and reported than Salmonella or E Coli. I’m not here to convert but I’m just saying….

Not believing in waste, I had a whole large piece of pork skin left over from the belly used to makeChorizo. The perfect crispy skin has always eluded me. Close but not perfection. Then I came across some references to the famous English Chef Fergus Henderson, who is known for his nose to tail style of cooking. Nothing is wasted and respect is shown to animal  without waste. It seems his pork scratchings( pork rinds) are a huge deal and a superior recipe. A total of a five to six day process, the skin is lovingly salted for five days to confit and swathed in duck fat andconfited .Once tender and jelly like after the confit, the skin is then racked in the oven and puffs and bubbles to a beautiful golden brow, It really is the perfect recipe. Your next cocktail party, football game, or holiday gathering , offer up these nibbles and your swine eating guests will bow at your feet. You can purchase pork skin in most Latin markets, or save it from when you buy whole roasts.

I did make a little error with these nibbles. I didn’t soak the skin after salting. Fortunately I didn’t use loads of salt, so a nice cold beer washed it away. That’s my second salt accident this month.When doing the final baking , rather than keep the skin intact, cut it up into smaller pieces to aid crispiness, I find the smaller pieces puff more. Then you break it up even more when complete.

You know this isn’t  health food and should only be made on special occasions. But it is way better than deep frying the rinds in my opinion like the Mexican Chicarron,but its wickedly good. Enjoy!

I did feel like Hannibal Lecter while making this. Carefully tending to large swathes of skin. My refrigerator looked like a lab.So this recipe isn’t for the squeamish, if things like that bother you. You know, the type that likes their meat all neat and packaged in Styrofoam and wrapped in plastic. Kidding!

Be sure check out the Duo Dishes , who posted their own version of pork rinds this week too.

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Pork Scratchings

adapted by Fergus Henderson from Beyond Nose to Tail


 

 Ingredients

  • Pig’s skin  with a little fat on the underside
  • Kosher Salt or Sea Salt
  • Duck fat (about 1 cup or more to cover the skin)
  1. Spread a layer of sea salt on a glass , plastic or non reactive tray.
  2. Apply sea salt on top of the pork skin liberally( approx about 1-2 tbsp. Depending on size of skins.
  3. Cover salted skin and leave in  the refrigerator for five days.
  4. Remove skin and soak in cold water overnight for several hours or overnight.
  5. Dry skin and place on a lipped baking sheet.
  6. Rub duck fat on both sides of skin .
  7. Cover with foil.
  8. Bake  in a medium oven( about 220-225 F) for 2½ hrs.
  9. Take out to cool.
  10. At this point you can make sure fat solidifies over skin and keep covered with fat until ready to use at alater date in the fridge.
  11. Or…Place a rack on a lipped baking sheet, then lay your skin on top.
  12. Turn oven to approx 350-375 F and roast. Skin should  slightly puff up  and turn golden and crispy.
  13. Do not overly brown or burn
  14. Remove from the oven  and cool.
  15. Place the crispy skin on a board and  break it up with with a heavy knife.
  16. Serve

* skin can be chewy and tough in some parts so be careful with sensitive teeth or dental issues.

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